Grape Growing

An excellent source of information is The Tangled Vine: Winegrowing in Nova Scotia by Chris Naugler MD, Bruce Wright MD and Robert Murray P.Eng and Wamboldt's Nova Scotia Winegrowers' Guide 2006 Edition by Dr. Christopher Naugler and Dr. Bruce Wright. These two books are an excellent resource and are available through the Grape Growers Association of Nova Scotia

Propagating

Grapevines being propagated from cuttings should be cut into pieces of heathy wood (inside green when first cut) with 3-5 buds. This wood should then be soaked for 12-24 hours to rehydrate the wood. Dip the root end in rooting hormone and then place in soil. If the vines take root and start to leaf you have done well. Remember that these vines (with leaves) cannot be planted outside until the risk of frost has passed.

Site

Choose a site which is free from late spring frosts and early fall frosts. Late spring frosts will kill new tender leaves and early fall frost will not allow the fruit to ripen properly. Frost drains from high to low areas so avoid frost pockets. Grapes need heat so plant them where they will receive as much sun and heat as possible.

Soil

Grapes prefer a well-drained soil. Gravelly or sandy loams are excellent. A clay loam will do if not too heavy, but wet or heavy clay soils are not good types for grapes. If you must use a poorly drained soil it should be tile drained. Grapes will prosper if the soil is rich in organic matter. As organic matter breaks down it provides the nutrients for growth. A mulch of shredded bark or leaf mould helps to maintain soil moisture and eventually adds to the organic content of the soil. The acidity level of the soil should be tested. Most Maritime soils will need lime. A pH level of 6.5 is ideal.

Planting

When planting a containerized plant, dig your hole wide and deep enough to accommodate your plant. Place some good earth, preferably with a bit of compost or well rotted manure on the bottom. Take the plant out of the container. If the roots have started to encircle the bottom, gently tease them outward and spread them in the bottom of the hole. Pack your soil around the plant well so that all air pockets are eliminated. The addition of a handful of bone meal will aid the roots in their growth. Soak your plant well. If possible place a layer of mulch 3-4 in. thick and soak again. Remember that your plant is losing water through its leaves, so be sure to give it a good soak every few days. Once frost kills the leaves this is probably unnecessary. If you plant a bare root grape proceed as above, but spread the roots evenly.

Pruning

The year of planting , prune your plant lightly, if at all. The more leaves you have, the more potential for growth the plant has. In the fall or early next spring remove all the canes except one except if using a training system that requires two main canes. Stake this cane up with a bamboo stake or similar device. You may have some grapes form on the lower portion of this stem. In the fall leave the main stem and 6 inch laterals closest to the wires. A rule of thumb, leave approximately 20-30 buds per plant. As the years go by you may leave somewhat more wood each spring, however the plants should be pruned hard to produce large clusters of quality grapes. By pruning, you limit the number of fruit buds and those that remain receive the entire vigour of the root system. If you do not prune, you will end up with many grapes, but they will be small and lack sweetness. If you are growing your vine over a trellis for ornamental purposes, prune more lightly, thinning out weak canes rather than cutting them back.

Harvesting

The most common mistake of the new grape grower is to pick the grapes before they have reached optimum ripeness. Remember that once picked, grapes do not get sweeter. Because a grape turns color, it does not mean it is ripe. The sugar content gradually rises in the fruit. Unless you have a device (refractometer) to test this sugar level, the best way is to sample frequently. Once ripe, snip the clusters off with pruning shears. Handle carefully so as not to injure the berries. Grapes can be kept several weeks if kept at refrigerator temperatures.